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Good questions from @RFR. Also, when is the last time you did a full calibration on the machine? What tape are you using and did you set the bias for that tape?

Thanks. The service manual is for the mkI version not mkII, so I don’t know what all is different with the internals. So this is still something akin to shooting in the dark. Does it do it when only one or the other channel is in SAFE status, or only when both are in SAFE? And regardless...

Unfortunately I would need a service manual to even begin formulating an answer. And I do not have one.

I’m going to assume your numbers are in ohms. Details help. If my assumption is correct, then yes I think so. And don’t assume that’s all. Once you have a proper transformer you need to power it up with the power supply isolated and check the outputs for correct voltage and look for AC ripple...

After looking over the schematics, if it was me I’d not change any values. At this age even just a recap would likely be a potential improvement because the caps that are in there are over 30 years old. But if it was me, for signal path stuff I’d just use Nichicon KT series except for the output...

Sure that’s possible. You could experiment and try recording it again but with dbx off.

There should be no continuity from the primary winding to the secondary winding. Please post specific results of your testing.

Yeah, Dave, we’ll have to see. Much to learn yet… I confirmed the $17.49 pdf manual is complete with schematics…191 pages:

I’m telling you it was the same as R1. They are both 33R flameproof resistors. They are the same part one for each side of the dual rail supply. I think if you don’t have the full Operation-Maintenance manual you should pony up and buy a complete copy. Nobody that owns a vintage tape machine...

I don’t know the specifics of your gear. RCA - XLR vs RCA - TRS I don’t know. You have to look at what type of input or output it is if you’re talking about combo jacks. My peso is for instance expects mic level on the XLR of a combo jack, and line level on the TRS section. Read your manuals...

There’s no reason to assume the tape you purchased is good. Was it a vintage tape? I don’t know what interface you are using, but sometimes there are physical level range setting switches on the inputs and outputs. And other times or additionally there are digital software trim controls for...

You stated “R1 burned.” Do you mean R2 burned? R1 and R2 are series input/dropping resistors. They are flameproof rated because, in this application they serve as potential protection as something of a fusible link in the event of a fault. It is not uncommon for these to get darkened and...

Suggestion #1 for you: stop guessing and download the copy of the service manual with the schematics that’s floating around the interwebs. There’s no gain in making guesses. Was the power supply isolated when you tested the outputs or connected to the rest of the system? If you have visibly...

That was going to be my next question…does the problem happen with different tapes. So am I understanding correctly you believe the issue is resolved?

I agree 100%. It is likely there are multiple faults now that include both the main transformer and the power supply. But you can start with the transformer. Set your multimeter to resistance. There are two wires from the power cord and switch that are likely the same color. Those go to the...

I don’t have that information. I don’t usually see that in a service manual. The voltages need to be sufficient to be above the minimum threshold for the regulator in a regulated DC supply.

You have to input the correct power at the primary input and measure the output of the multiple secondaries using the service manual as a guide.

Any number of things could have happened. Fuses aren’t for an over-voltage protection at input, they are to cut power when there is an unusually high demand for current downstream of the power supply. So…fuses don’t help you with what you did and likely wouldn’t be compromised. The first thing I...

To save me from having to read the whole thread, can you clarify what I’m looking at there? I’m far less familiar with the 30 series machines and without context have no idea what you have there or how it’s put together.

Terrible…over five years since an update…I’ve mentioned little updates as parts of posts of other threads so some of you may be aware I of course still have the MM-1000, and it’s now in a relatively proper space that is also shared by the console and mastering deck…this may seem silly to you but...